
For the last four years, writer Torrey Peters has been splitting her time between Colombia and New York City. The Detransition, Baby author gets her fill of the country’s abundance of fresh fruit; she often reads while working her way through a three-pound bag of tiny mangoes over the course of an hour. “They’re so small, and there’s so much work to get out what is basically a spoonful of incredibly good, sweet mango,” she says. But she misses Asian food when she’s away. “I’m used to New York, where I can go get Xi’an noodles or stuff that’s very specific, like umami flavors.” She’ll be in the city soon, though, to promote her new collection, Stag Dance. Billed as both “a novel and stories,” it traverses disparate settings: post-contagion America, boarding school, a logging expedition, Las Vegas. For now, though, Peters is content in Santa Marta, devouring lots of tropical fruit, oceanside seafood, and the best vending-machine candy bar for miles.
Monday, February 10
Wake up at 5:30. I make a double shot of espresso and split it into two little mugs. Froth some milk for a cappuccino. Watch the sunrise with Chrys from the balcony of our apartment. On the street below, as usual, Don Francisco sweeps the sidewalks and yells at Negro, the street dog that he has named, feeds, and cares for. It’s always the same: Negro chases one of the early-morning moto-taxis; Don Francisco shouts for him to stop. When the moto speeds away, Negro trots proudly back to Don Francisco, who attempts and fails to punish him with a broom. Don Francisco cups Negro’s face in both hands and delivers to him a forceful lecture on the evils of chasing motorcycles, then ducks inside and returns with a bowl of kibble. Don Francisco has magnificent iron-gray hair and is the self-elected boss of this block.
Chrys goes inside to make us each a second cappuccino. Another character on our block, an older woman, whose name I don’t know, totters her way toward an abandoned school where all the orange street cats live; they scurry out with their tails flagpoled in greeting and mill about her ankles while she feeds them. By then, Jerson, the tinto vendor, pushes his cart down the block and, without asking, gives Don Francisco a plastic cup of tinto. I feel that I should really support Jerson and drink tinto — hot instant coffee loaded with sugar — but I just love frothy milk. Next, I blend a smoothie of one banana, one passion fruit, and two oranges with a spoonful of flax and chia. Chrys and I have the timing dialed in: We drink it just as the sun crests the mountains. When we finish, it is bright out but still cool.
Today, we run up Sendero Ziruma, a raised footpath that climbs about 300 feet, to go over an arid pass with a view of the ocean. Chrys takes the downhill fast, streaking far ahead of me. We meet up again at Cafeteria Sebas, on Carrera 4 in Rodadero, a family-run frito stand that (for my money) fries the best empanadas in town. By the time I arrive, Chrys is already sitting in one of the plastic chairs set out on the sidewalk. She doesn’t need to ask what I want: a cup of orange juice with no sugar and no ice and a chicken-cheese-and-corn empanada. Chrys is likewise predictable. She gets an arepa de huevo perico, which is an egg mixed with onion and green pepper and pressed into arepa masa and then deep fried. A guy at the stand notices our sweatiness and asks us why we bother to run if we are just going to eat fritos. Chrys says that he has it backward: We’re going to eat fritos anyway, so why not run to get them?
I’m working on an essay for Harper’s Bazaar today, and so I take a Vigia — the local brand of Modafinil, which you can buy without a prescription at the pharmacy. It kills my appetite, but around 2, I blend a zapote with milk and ice, which is my favorite drink. In Florida, I think they call a zapote mamey, but I’ve never seen it anywhere else in the U.S. It’s a fruit about the size of a small cantaloupe. The flesh has a consistency somewhere between a sweet potato and an avocado, and it’s orange from beta-carotene, like a carrot. The flavor is just its own thing, and it makes the best milkshake in the world, no sugar needed.
Around 6, I am hungry, because I’ve been reading and writing all day without eating much, so I spatchcock a small chicken, brush it with oil, and roast it in a cast-iron pan. I always spatchcock chicken, because it cooks faster and it’s fun to say. Chrys and I eat the chicken with some leftover Cuban rice — I like to make it with black beans, green peppers, onions, garlic, cumin, bay, and cinnamon bark. Then we continue our ongoing Better Call Saul marathon and eat Lök chocolate (made from Colombian cacao) in bed.
Tuesday, February 11
Sunrise the same as the day before: two cappuccinos, Don Francisco, Negro, the old woman, the cats. Banana-passion-fruit-orange smoothie.
New York published a column this morning that I wrote on Colombia’s diplomatic incident with Donald Trump, my attempt to get Colombian residency, and Trump’s executive order for trans passports: Even though I’ve had an F in my passport for a decade, his regime will be changing it to an M when I renew next year. My anxiety spikes — today is a day to avoid my phone, to avoid seeing whatever responses that column gets.
I decide to renew the revisión técnico-mecánica for my motorcycle — a yearly safety and emissions check. I half-expected that moving to Colombia would be constant adventure — but no, all over the world you must sit in waiting rooms the equivalent of the DMV while some 16-year-old approves or denies the validity of your possessions. In the waiting room, I buy a Jumbo Flow from the vending machine. Jumbo Flow is an excellent Colombian candy bar. Jumbo is the brand, and Flow is the designation for this specific bar; in this case, white chocolate with nougat and caramel.
Got a message from Nadim, my immigration lawyer. He and I have been rushing to renew my visa for Colombian residency before Trump’s gender-marker changes go into effect for my American documents. Turns out that I need to meet him at the Centro Migración to get proof that I properly applied for my cedula extranjería. On the way, I meet Chrys at Mommy’s Bagels, the new (and only) bagel shop in Santa Marta. We order a smoked-salmon bagel to split. I wouldn’t say that what arrives resembles a smoked-salmon bagel in NYC, but if I accept it as a baked-salmon sandwich, it is pretty good. The guard outside the mirrored doors of Centro Migración won’t let Nadim enter with me. “Absolutely no lawyers!” he declares. I’m on my own in another waiting room.
For dinner, Chrys and I celebrate my bureaucratic successes by taking our newly legal motorcycle to Nómada, a little spot on Playa Salguero that makes great bread in-house. We order a pizza, and the crust is just perfect, although I wish they would use buffalo mozzarella for the cheese. I guess someone imported some water buffalo a couple decades ago, and they must have flourished, because you can now find buffalo mozzarella in many stores in the area. For dessert, I order a cone of salty chocolate ice cream and am thrilled to discover that Nómada also makes the cone in-house. It is so good: crispy but also soft.
Wednesday, February 12
Don Francisco sweeping the sidewalks per usual. However! The cat lady doesn’t come to feed the cats today. What’s up with that? Our first winter in Santa Marta, there was a cat massacre. At some point during the pandemic, people began dumping unwanted stray cats at the polideportivo, which is the local public sports center. A group of nice feline lovers built the cats a cat house. Then, one night, someone set fire to the cat house with all the cats inside. It was a huge scandal. The police never caught the cat murderers. Anyway, now, when the local cats don’t get fed, I begin to worry. For the old lady who feeds them, but also for the cats and whoever has nefarious designs on them. We are out of passion fruit today, so the smoothie must be pineapple, banana, and orange.
Chrys and I meet Nadim at the notary to give him the previous day’s paperwork and to sign a power of attorney. Afterward, he takes us for lunch at a seafood restaurant called Mañe Cayón in the Los Cocos sector of the city. The floor is made of sand. It’s a very cute place; I’ve known about it for a long time, but I’ve never eaten here. That’s because Los Cocos has a bunch of newly built towers, but the capacity of the sewer system in the area was not fit to accommodate them, and, consequently, stagnant sewage often floods the streets in front of Mañe Cayón. Today, however, the sewers only overflow slightly and there is no poop smell. Very good! I order mariscos al ajo: conch, shrimp, mussels, and calamari in a garlic butter. It’s delicious. Nadim gets a cazuela — like a creamy stew — and Chrys the bandeja de mariscos.
Evening is the worst time to go to the public market. By then, all the produce has been out in the heat all day. But we’re out of fruit and so we go anyway. The market is a giant concrete public building, and the best fruit is sold on the surrounding streets, not in the market building itself. I think that is because the first floor of the market is also the meat market, and the whole place smells of blood and gore, which makes one less excited to load up on raw fruit. We get: five zapote, three pounds of loquat, one small pineapple, three pounds of sweet mangoes, one bag of cloudberries, one pitaya, one bunch mint, one Florida avocado, and one starfruit. There are certain types of fruit I’ve only ever found for sale at this specific market — mangosteens (red skin, white flesh, black seeds), for example. I would describe mangosteens as being in the Jolly Rancher family of flavors — you taste one and you think, Wow, this could be a Jolly Rancher flavor. But, of course, it is not, it is simply a lovely fruit, like all Jolly Ranchers once were.
We feast on these fruits for dinner in front of another episode of Better Call Saul.
Thursday, February 13
Good news. The cat lady is back. Morning as usual. Banana/passion fruit/orange. On our run, we buy from the fishermen on 27th Street a couple of cojinoa (which Google says translates to “blue runner”?). Cojinoa tastes to me like a cross between mackerel and red snapper. I wash the fish and put it in the fridge.
I have a Zoom interview with Veronica Esposito for The Guardian about my new book. When I go to the kitchen after the interview, I discover that Chrys’s friend Didier, whose father-in-law is a fisherman, has given her a whole bag of cojinoa. I cook two of them in the air fryer for lunch, prepared very simply. I brush them with vegetable oil, then a dusting of salt, curry powder, and black pepper — served with a half-lime.
I should cook more cojinoa while they are still fresh, but I don’t. Instead, Chrys and I go to La Inmortal Taquería, on the Malecon, which sells Mexico City–style tacos. I order barbacoa de chivo, and Chrys gets birria with the caldo. On 20th Street, we run into Alejandro, who I initially met chatting on Grindr, and then we kept recognizing each other in real life. Alejandro is obsessed with trans guys. He really wants to date a trans guy. Last time I saw him, he begged me to introduce him to a trans guy — as if I, as a trans woman, am allotted a certain number of my own trans men whom I am now jealously withholding from him. (In fact, this is the case — we each get four).
Friday, February 14
The usual. Also, I make a simple broth from the remaining cojinoa before they turn. We have some, then freeze it to use for paella someday soon.
Today is Valentine’s Day. If you know me, then you know that an obsession with saunas (both building them and taking them) has become, like, two-fifths of my personality over the last year. Sorry about that, friends.
There is a rustic Finnish-style sauna near Minca, a small town about 45 minutes up the mountains from Santa Marta. The sauna was built by Duende, a Czech man who has a farm in the rainforest with his wife. For Valentine’s, I’ve rented the sauna for the day. I think it is romantic: Duende situated the sauna down in a gorge so no one can see it — you can sauna naked and jump from a small falls for the cold plunge. Duende makes us a pot of green tea and leaves us to the heat.
Post-sauna, hungry and tired, we ride the motorcycle another 35 minutes and 2,000 feet higher up the mountain, to Asadero Camarita, which serves llanera-style barbecue, a method of grilling meat that comes from the llanos—or plains regions—of Colombia. The chef puts the meat on large skewers and rests it inside a wood-fire brick oven so that it gets very charred and smoky.
The dining area is just slabs of chainsawed ceiba wood set under a tin roof. Chrys and I order a picada for two — a sampler plate of chopped beef, chicken, pork, and chorizo. It’s so incredibly excellent. I have another big bottle of Coca-Cola, because, after all, it’s Valentine’s Day.
More Grub Street Diets
ADVERTISEMENT:
Halo, sobat pengemar slots Pernah mendengar semboyan “slot gacor”? jika belum, bersiaplah jatuh hati dengan konsep ini. raja slot merupakan mesin slot yang selalu memberi kemenangan. Yup, slot-slot ini bisa disebut adalah jagoannya tuk membawa pulang cuan. but, gimana sih caranya nemuin slot gaco yang tepat? Tenang Bro and Sis, kita bahas santai saja di tempat ini
Gaming terbaik waktu ini hanya satu di Indonesia hanya di akan memberikan ROI tertinggi
Daftarkanlah dengan di :
Informasi mengenai KING SLOT, Segera Daftar Bersama king selot terbaik dan terpercaya no satu di Indonesia. Boleh mendaftar melalui sini king slot serta memberikan hasil kembali yang paling tinggi saat sekarang ini hanyalah KING SLOT atau Raja slot paling gacor, gilak dan gaco saat sekarang di Indonesia melalui program return tinggi di kingselot serta pg king slot
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
situs slot terbaru
situs slot terbaru permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
slot terbaru
slot terbaru permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
merek 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama merek88.net
merek 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama merek88.com
mantan99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mantan99.asia
mantan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mantan88.asia
maksimal88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama maksimal88.biz
maksimal88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama maksimal88.asia
liburan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama liburan88.com
indodax88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indodax88.org
indah99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indah99.asia
indah88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indah88.asia
ikn88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama ikn88.asia
ibukota88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama ibukota88.com
huawei88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama huawei88.asia
hot888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama hot888.asia
hot88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama hot88.sale
dingin88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dingin88.net
citra88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama citra88.asia
binance88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama binance88.net
best99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama best99.info
best88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama best88.asia
tradisional 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tradisional88.net
tradisional 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tradisional88.com
tombol88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tombol88.org
tombol88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tombol88.net
survey88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama survey88.net
survey88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama survey88.com
start88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama start88.org
start88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama start88.asia
obatkuat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama obatkuat88.net
obatkuat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama obatkuat88.com
mcb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mcb88.info
mcb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mcb88.asia
master99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master99.biz
master888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master888.asia
master88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master88.asia
live88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama live88.bio
live88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama live88.asia
libra88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama libra88.net
kompresor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kompresor88.net
kompresor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kompresor88.com
kesimpulan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kesimpulan88.net
kesimpulan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kesimpulan88.com
kapasitor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kapasitor88.net
kapasitor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kapasitor88.com
kacamata88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kacamata88.net
kacamata88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kacamata88.com
jamu88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jamu88.info
jamu88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jamu88.asia
jam88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jam88.info
jam88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jam88.asia
follow88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama follow88.org
follow88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama follow88.net
dinamo88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dinamo88.net
dinamo88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dinamo88.info
baterai88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama baterai88.net
baterai88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama baterai88.com
miegacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama miegacoan.life
miegacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama miegacoan.asia
gacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama gacoan.org
gacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama gacoan.asia
website88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama website88.org
waweb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama waweb88.net
waweb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama waweb88.com
translate88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama translate88.net
translate88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama translate88.com
tempur888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tempur888.info
tempur888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tempur888.asia
tambang99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tambang99.news
tambang99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tambang99.asia
support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.org
support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.net
support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.asia
sogoslot88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama sogoslot88.asia
siap88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama siap88.news
siap88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama siap88.asia
rog88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama rog88.asia
rog77 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama rog77.info
pt88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pt88.info
pt88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pt88.asia
pln88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pln88.biz
pln88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pln88.asia
oke99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama oke99.asia
oke88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama oke88.asia
mining88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mining88.org
livechat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama livechat88.info
livechat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama livechat88.asia
listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.org
listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.info
listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.asia
freeport88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama freeport88.net
freeport88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama freeport88.com
free88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama free88.org
free88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama free88.asia
domain88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama domain88.org
domain88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama domain88.asia
dokter888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dokter888.net
dokter888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dokter888.asia
bmkg88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama bmkg88.net
bmkg88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama bmkg88.com
asn88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama asn88.org