A course of mushrooms served at Olmsted, which is home to a month-long Alinea residency.
Photo: Lanna Apisukh/Lanna Apisukh
Rain came down in sheets on the opening night of the month-long residency of Alinea at Olmsted. Grant Achatz’s high-caliber, hypertechnical Chicago restaurant Alinea turned 20 years old this year, and since Greg Baxtrom, chef of Brooklyn’s Olmsted, had been there at the very beginning, Achatz was visiting his mentee to celebrate. “I began thinking how many people have come through the restaurant and gone on to do amazing things,” Achatz explains. “I wanted to involve the alumni. Greg was on my shortlist.”
Baxtrom was a cooking-obsessed 19-year-old Eagle Scout looking to interview the then-unknown Achatz when he walked into the restaurant in 2005. He ended up working in the kitchen for three and a half years, leaving after he’d risen to become a sous-chef. When, nearly a decade later, he opened Olmsted, Alinea’s influence was felt in the playful preparations like a Christo-orange carrot crêpe and a sweet-pea falafel. “The best compliment I got early on,” Baxtrom says, “was it felt like if Alinea and Blue Hill Stone Barns had a casual baby.”
The demand for seats at the collaboration has been extraordinary. As soon as the residency was announced in February, tickets, which cost $455 for one person, sold out. (More will be released gradually through the restaurant’s run.) Alinea’s residency in New York goes far beyond the usual pop-up M.O.; the whole space has been reimagined. The private dining room has been turned into an old-timey library. The covered backyard is transformed into a greenhouse. And the main dining room has become some kind of futuristic vessel. “We did this all in two days,” says Baxtrom, with equal measures of exhaustion and pride. “Short runway,” agrees Achatz.
Alinea is known for a certain vision of maximalist modernist cooking. The collaboration keeps the mondo aesthetic going. The dinner unfolds over five locations and offers nearly 20 courses. It has many layers, no small amount of theatricality, and a soundtrack that includes both the Kronos Quartet’s “Requiem for a Dream” and the Beastie Boys’ “No Sleep Till Brooklyn.” Jaywalking is involved. So are quatrains, black lights, truffles, caviar, and charred Arctic char. There are four seatings each night, from 5:30 to 9:15, with between 20 and 24 guests per turn. Almost the entire Alinea staff has relocated for the month, many doubled up in Airbnbs around the city.
Every meal starts in the library. On an antique desk, an Underwood typewriter has a single sheet of paper in its maw. “Take What Is Yours.” An open guest book sits on an armchair, fountain pen uncapped. From a record player next to a sepia-toned globe, lit by long tapered candles, Leoš Janáček’s “Sinfonietta” crackles and pops. The first course is had by the window where a contraption made of multiple antennae sits. At the tip of each rod, like the inflorescence of a cattail, is a tiny square of everything bagel topped with lox, pickled red onion, a fried caper, whipped cream cheese, and dill.
On the bookshelves, beside the Escoffiers and Phaidons, sit multiple novels by Haruki Murakami. They are large with bright-red spines and bold white letters. A suited server instructs guests to pluck the book from the shelf. Achatz says he was inspired by a particular scene in Murakami’s 2002 novel Kafka on the Shore. “It’s about time and reflection and projection, so we wanted to have elements of the past, the present, and future,” he told me after the meal. These are not books at all but booklike boxes. Inside the hollow cavity is a small flashlight, a teensy-weensy pizza box, and a card on which is written a pair of rhyming couplets. “You’ll need the flashlight later,” instructs a server.
Inside the pizza box is the second course: a small triangle of rice paper (very thin crust!) on which the flavors of pizza — dehydrated ground pizza crust, mozzarella powder, tomato powder, and a bunch of other powders — are affixed. “Let it dissolve on your tongue,” says another server. (There are many servers.) The final course in the library, melding future and past, is a “Chicago dog”: two discs of translucent hot-dog water — made of charred hot-dog stock run through a rotary evaporator — topped with a tiny brunoise of tomato, compressed onion, a slice of sport pepper, and a neon-green relish fluid gel. Each sits atop a monocle, which itself rests upon a postcard of Chicago.
A meal starts with a bagel and lox …
… and a hot dog.
Photos Lanna Apisukh
Hot dog slurped, we are bidden to examine the poetry written on the card found inside the faux Murakami: “Mushrooms sprout where shadows creep / The path is dark, the roots run deep. / Take your flashlight, hold it tight — You’ll need its glow to guide the night.” With that, we’re led through a moss-lined hallway into the back garden. Along the walls, in custom-made glass vessels, are puffed porcini-mushroom crisps with pine-nut mushroom butter. We pluck and eat, deposit our flashlights, and continue into the backyard.
This sets off an unceasing procession of courses; five courses are served in the back garden. Few involve a traditional knife and fork. “The monotony of fork, knife, and spoon that we do our whole lives,” says Achatz, “it becomes second nature. We have to break that. It’s a little alarming, a little different.” Caviar, for instance, that sits atop a disk of pineapple gelée studded with vesicles of finger lime, arrives in a curved pebbled glass meant to tactilely mimic the experience of caviar itself. That vessel, alongside 3,000 pounds of other material, arrived in a shipping container and two vans from Chicago a few days before. A course called “explosion,” an Alinea mainstay, consists of a black truffle, Parmesan raviolo served on a single spoon with no plate at all. “Make sure you seal your lips around it,” says the server. Brown-butter fried frog legs are served beside potted Brooklyn evergreens doused in scented water. A nod to Chinese takeout, beef and broccoli (Australian Wagyu short rib, broccoli stem, broccoli purée, fried florets, razor-shaved broccoli cells) is served atop a hot slab of concrete and finished with a Brooklyn Brewery beer gelée “graffiti.”
After the concrete is cleared, the meal moves to the main dining room of Olmsted. The walls are lined with aluminum foil. It feels like being in a kid’s lunch sack. Between the tables, kept taut by hidden strings, are sheets of translucent fabric.
The Brooklyn restaurant Olmsted has been given a complete makeover for the residency.
Cauliflower with goat’s-milk curd and garam masala.
Photos Lanna Apisukh
Everyone sits before large, opaque glass columns. “All rise,” calls a server. Dutifully, everyone shuffles to their feet. “Sometimes, you have to confront your fears,” he says, “before taking what is yours. So please punch the top of the cylinder and enjoy.” We punch open the top of the cylinder, where a solitary prawn, skewered by a vanilla bean, is our reward. Having confronted our fears, we eat the prawn and sit down again. Maple-syrup-cured charred Arctic char arrives on a toadstool-like pedestal. Flipped over, one sees secreted into the empty space char roe and carrot curry pearls held in a gelée. In another, cauliflower is served with goat-milk curds masquerading as floret. Then an Alinea classic — Hot Potato/Cold Potato — is presented in a complicated vessel, a bowl that needs directions that, when properly operated, plunges a sphere of hot potato into a cold potato soup. The final dish, one that Baxtrom used to prepare at Alinea, is squab accompanied by a realistic strawberry made of beeswax, strawberry purée, and lemon balm.
Then it’s time to go outside, where employees gamely hold umbrellas on the deserted street. (By this time, it is around midnight.) We cross the street into Amorina, whose owner is on a monthlong Alinea-sponsored vacation. The entire space is shrouded in white fabric. The tables are white; the staff wear white slippers, and the floor is photo-studio white too. A procession of chefs stream from the kitchen in single-line formation. Each holds a yellow chalice that they set upon the table. In it sits a baked Alaska made with barrel-stave-smoked ice cream. They torch the meringue. It’s all very The Menu meets Wild Wild Country. In front of each table, the chef swoops and swooshes ruby-red syrups and taupe puddles. This is the famous Paint dessert (known in the kitchen as the Mat Set). They shuffle away. Suddenly, the lights change to black light and the Beastie Boys’ “No Sleep Till Brooklyn” begins to blare. In the light, the antique glass goblets glow a psychedelic yellow. The cherry swirls emit an Upside Down glow, and the banana sauce radiates a faint uranium glimmer.
By the time the meal ends, it is well past midnight. The rain has stopped. It’s hard to know what to feel. Full? Yes. Satisfied? Maybe. Where’s the line between silly and spectacular, try-hard and transcendent? It has been washed away. The effort is heroic; nothing here is nonchalant, and though the experience is seamless, to think of the sheer amount of work — the glass polishers ceaselessly cleaning, the servers trotting back and forth across Vanderbilt in the rain, the chefs slipping in and out of their slippers, the combined kitchen staff, the mass of allusions made and gelées set — it’s impossible not to be awed. In the words of Murakami, “Once the storm is over, you won’t remember how you made it through, how you managed to survive. You won’t even be sure, in fact, whether the storm is really over. But one thing is certain. When you come out of the storm, you won’t be the same person who walked in. That’s what this storm’s all about.”
Alinea’s edible balloon.
Baked Alaska (after).
Photos Lanna Apisukh
ADVERTISEMENT:
Hello, para pencinta slot! Pernah denger istilah “slot gaco”? jika belum, siap-siap jatuh hati dengan program ini. slot demo adalah mesin slots yang selalu memberi win. Yup, mesin-mesin ini bisa dibilang sebagai jagoannya tuk bawa pulang cuan. tapi, cemana sih caranya nemuin raja lot yang benar? Tenang Bro, kita beri santai aja di tempat ini
Game terbaik waktu sekarang satu-satunya di Indonesia hanya di akan menyediakan ROI terbaik
Daftar hanya di :
Informasi mengenai KING SLOT, Segera Daftar Bersama king selot terbaik dan terpercaya no satu di Indonesia. Boleh mendaftar melalui sini king slot serta memberikan hasil kembali yang paling tinggi saat sekarang ini hanyalah KING SLOT atau Raja slot paling gacor, gilak dan gaco saat sekarang di Indonesia melalui program return tinggi di kingselot serta pg king slot
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro
slot demo gacor
slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun demo slot gacor
akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun slot demo gacor
akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun demo slot pragmatic
akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun slot demo pragmatic
akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun slot demo
akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
akun demo slot
akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
situs slot terbaru
situs slot terbaru permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
slot terbaru
slot terbaru permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net
merek 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama merek88.net
merek 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama merek88.com
mantan99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mantan99.asia
mantan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mantan88.asia
maksimal88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama maksimal88.biz
maksimal88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama maksimal88.asia
liburan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama liburan88.com
indodax88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indodax88.org
indah99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indah99.asia
indah88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indah88.asia
ikn88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama ikn88.asia
ibukota88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama ibukota88.com
huawei88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama huawei88.asia
hot888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama hot888.asia
hot88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama hot88.sale
dingin88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dingin88.net
citra88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama citra88.asia
binance88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama binance88.net
best99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama best99.info
best88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama best88.asia
tradisional 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tradisional88.net
tradisional 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tradisional88.com
tombol88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tombol88.org
tombol88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tombol88.net
survey88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama survey88.net
survey88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama survey88.com
start88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama start88.org
start88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama start88.asia
obatkuat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama obatkuat88.net
obatkuat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama obatkuat88.com
mcb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mcb88.info
mcb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mcb88.asia
master99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master99.biz
master888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master888.asia
master88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master88.asia
live88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama live88.bio
live88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama live88.asia
libra88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama libra88.net
kompresor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kompresor88.net
kompresor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kompresor88.com
kesimpulan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kesimpulan88.net
kesimpulan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kesimpulan88.com
kapasitor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kapasitor88.net
kapasitor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kapasitor88.com
kacamata88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kacamata88.net
kacamata88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kacamata88.com
jamu88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jamu88.info
jamu88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jamu88.asia
jam88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jam88.info
jam88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jam88.asia
follow88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama follow88.org
follow88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama follow88.net
dinamo88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dinamo88.net
dinamo88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dinamo88.info
baterai88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama baterai88.net
baterai88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama baterai88.com
miegacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama miegacoan.life
miegacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama miegacoan.asia
gacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama gacoan.org
gacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama gacoan.asia
website88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama website88.org
waweb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama waweb88.net
waweb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama waweb88.com
translate88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama translate88.net
translate88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama translate88.com
tempur888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tempur888.info
tempur888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tempur888.asia
tambang99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tambang99.news
tambang99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tambang99.asia
support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.org
support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.net
support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.asia
sogoslot88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama sogoslot88.asia
siap88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama siap88.news
siap88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama siap88.asia
rog88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama rog88.asia
rog77 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama rog77.info
pt88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pt88.info
pt88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pt88.asia
pln88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pln88.biz
pln88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pln88.asia
oke99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama oke99.asia
oke88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama oke88.asia
mining88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mining88.org
livechat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama livechat88.info
livechat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama livechat88.asia
listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.org
listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.info
listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.asia
freeport88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama freeport88.net
freeport88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama freeport88.com
free88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama free88.org
free88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama free88.asia
domain88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama domain88.org
domain88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama domain88.asia
dokter888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dokter888.net
dokter888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dokter888.asia
bmkg88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama bmkg88.net
bmkg88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama bmkg88.com
asn88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama asn88.org