DENMARK-GASTRONOMY-RESTAURANT-FOOD-DRINK

Noma’s René Redzepi
Photo: Thibault Savary/AFP via Getty Images

We were barely a week into 2023 when a New York Times headline caught the restaurant-world’s attention: “Noma, Rated the World’s Best Restaurant, Is Closing Its Doors.” Speaking with reporter Julia Moskin, René Redzepi said that he had come to the conclusion that the fine-dining business model is “unsustainable” and “we have to completely rethink the industry.” The restaurant, Redzepi said, would “close for regular service at the end of 2024” and Noma would live on as a food lab with an e-commerce operation and periodic pop-ups. A flurry of takes followed: The Guardian wondered, “Are we seeing the death of fine dining?” Wired more emphatically declared it to be “the end of fine dining.” The Independent blamed the movie The Menu, in which Ralph Fiennes plays a murderous chef. But Fiennes, at least, can sleep easy, because we are now at the end of 2024 and Noma is open for business with no signs that it will close at all.

The first indicator that the end was not imminent may have come the same day the Times story was published, when Redzepi & Co. shared a plan on the restaurant’s website for regular pop-ups around the world and “seasons” in Copenhagen once they’ve “gathered enough new ideas and flavors.” By March 2024, the chef explained to Bloomberg that Noma was going to pop up in Kyoto and would instead close in the spring of 2025. “For real,” the story emphasized. But in October, Redzepi was back on Bloomberg for another course correction: Noma “will exist as a pop-up entity” that will “open once a year” in Copenhagen or elsewhere on earth. And so it went that last month, Noma released and immediately sold out of tickets for its next menu, “Ocean Season 2025,” which will run January 21 to June 27. This is not typically what a restaurant does when it closes.

A rep for Noma says the plan is to still “evolve into a new type of restaurant organization” that will “operate as a pop-up entity” and so on. “Aside from the autumn pop-up in Kyoto and the shift in timing, we are working toward an evolution of Noma with much of this transformation already being under way,” the rep writes. That is, at best, an interesting interpretation of “closing.”

What happened? One going theory is that Noma’s shuttering was always a deflection. Not long before the Times story was published, the pandemic’s culinary revolt had brought scrutiny to the restaurant’s treatment of stagiaires — “stages,” pronounced the French way — the unpaid kitchen interns, as well as foreign workers tied to workplace-specific visas. Writing in the Financial Times, Imogen West-Knights reported that Noma’s stages, on which the restaurant depended to assemble its intricate, labor-intensive food, were misled about their hours and the type of work they’d be doing. While that story was being reported, Noma announced that it would start paying its stages for the first time, having previously only offered experience and the chance to glean a bit of the restaurant’s reputation on their résumés. (It cost Noma $50,000 a month, the Times later reported, to pay its interns.)

Shortly after the Financial Times report, the Danish weekly Weekendavisen published an article, by Jeppe Bentzen, about the ways that Noma and other restaurants run by its alums were violating Danish labor law for foreigners on work visas. The businesses are required to pay workers from outside the European Union a minimum salary, which at the start of 2024 was 487,000 Danish krone, or about $69,000. As Bentzen noted in his story, this is much higher than what Danish cooks are paid, and many restaurants can’t afford these salaries. But these restaurants were using accounting tricks like deducting the cost of meals, he reported, from the workers’ salaries to pay them less than they were legally owed. At Noma’s now-closed sister restaurant, Restaurant 108, Bentzen reported that several employees had 5,000 Danish krone, or $705, a month deducted from their pay every month. More details about the workplace came out in the Times story, including one former stage who said that she’d spent her three months at Noma only making beetles out of fruit leather and was forbidden from laughing.

People on both sides of the Atlantic express their doubts that Noma was ever going to close at all. One New York chef who staged there said — sarcastically — it was “bullshit” to create hype. A different chef says that his well-connected friends in Copenhagen tell him “it’s never gonna close,” but agreed to be quoted only as long as nothing led back to him. “They probably have hit men,” he joked. Yet another defended Redzepi spiritedly, but would only do so off the record. Most didn’t want to chat. (Moskin declined to talk about the reporting process, but acknowledged that getting people to go on the record about Noma “with anything but full-throated praise” is “so much work, every time.”) Some speculate that Redzepi was planning to shut down his shrine to sea buckthorn because he was feeling the pressure, or that he panicked about the negative press and public outrage surrounding the restaurant’s labor practices. But then, one observer said, nothing happened with the charges.

Of course, plenty else has happened since. This summer, Apple TV+ premiered Redzepi’s show, Omnivore, and Noma launched its e-commerce operation, which includes a “Taste Buds Membership,” a $680 subscription that promises “early access” to products from Noma’s test kitchen. The organizers of the Heartland Festival have hosted conversations at the restaurant, including one between Jeremy Strong and Karl Knausgård. Right now, Redzepi and his team are in Japan for their pop-up; later this month, they’ll return home to prepare for next year’s menu. Even if it’s only open for the first half of the year, it’s still open. It also means fewer dinners, which naturally increases the restaurant’s exclusivity, at least until the next menu is inevitably announced.



ADVERTISEMENT:

Halo, sobat pencinta slots pernahkah denger semboyan “raja slot? Kalau belum, siap-siap jatuh hati dengan program ini. slot gaco merupakan mesin slot yang selalu memberi kemenangan. Yup, mesin-mesin ini bisa dibilang sebagai andalannya buat bawa come back hasil. but, cemana sih
tekniknya jumpain slot demo yang tepat? Santai Bro and Sis, kita bahas santai saja di sini

Game tergacor waktu ini hanya satu di Indonesia hanya di akan memberikan return tertinggi

Daftar hanya di :

Informasi mengenai KING SLOT, Segera Daftar Bersama king selot terbaik dan terpercaya no satu di Indonesia. Boleh mendaftar melalui sini king slot serta memberikan hasil kembali yang paling tinggi saat sekarang ini hanyalah KING SLOT atau Raja slot paling gacor, gilak dan gaco saat sekarang di Indonesia melalui program return tinggi di kingselot serta pg king slot

slot demo gacor

slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com

akun demo slot gacor

akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com

akun slot demo gacor

akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com

akun demo slot pragmatic

akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com

akun slot demo pragmatic

akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com

akun slot demo

akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com

akun demo slot

akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kdwapp.com

slot demo gacor

slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com

akun demo slot gacor

akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com

akun slot demo gacor

akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com

akun demo slot pragmatic

akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com

akun slot demo pragmatic

akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com

akun slot demo

akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com

akun demo slot

akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jebswagstore.com

slot demo gacor

slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro

akun demo slot gacor

akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro

akun slot demo gacor

akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro

akun demo slot pragmatic

akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro

akun slot demo pragmatic

akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro

akun slot demo

akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro

akun demo slot

akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama demoslotgacor.pro

slot demo gacor

slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

akun demo slot gacor

akun demo slot gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

akun slot demo gacor

akun slot demo gacor permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

akun demo slot pragmatic

akun demo slot pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

akun slot demo pragmatic

akun slot demo pragmatic permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

akun slot demo

akun slot demo permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

akun demo slot

akun demo slot permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

situs slot terbaru

situs slot terbaru permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

slot terbaru

slot terbaru permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama situsslotterbaru.net

merek 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama merek88.net

merek 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama merek88.com

mantan99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mantan99.asia

mantan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mantan88.asia

maksimal88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama maksimal88.biz

maksimal88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama maksimal88.asia

liburan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama liburan88.com

indodax88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indodax88.org

indah99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indah99.asia

indah88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama indah88.asia

ikn88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama ikn88.asia

ibukota88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama ibukota88.com

huawei88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama huawei88.asia

hot888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama hot888.asia

hot88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama hot88.sale

dingin88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dingin88.net

citra88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama citra88.asia

binance88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama binance88.net

best99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama best99.info

best88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama best88.asia

tradisional 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tradisional88.net

tradisional 88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tradisional88.com

tombol88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tombol88.org

tombol88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tombol88.net

survey88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama survey88.net

survey88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama survey88.com

start88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama start88.org

start88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama start88.asia

obatkuat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama obatkuat88.net

obatkuat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama obatkuat88.com

mcb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mcb88.info

mcb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mcb88.asia

master99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master99.biz

master888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master888.asia

master88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama master88.asia

live88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama live88.bio

live88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama live88.asia

libra88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama libra88.net

kompresor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kompresor88.net

kompresor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kompresor88.com

kesimpulan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kesimpulan88.net

kesimpulan88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kesimpulan88.com

kapasitor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kapasitor88.net

kapasitor88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kapasitor88.com

kacamata88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kacamata88.net

kacamata88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama kacamata88.com

jamu88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jamu88.info

jamu88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jamu88.asia

jam88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jam88.info

jam88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama jam88.asia

follow88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama follow88.org

follow88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama follow88.net

dinamo88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dinamo88.net

dinamo88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dinamo88.info

baterai88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama baterai88.net

baterai88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama baterai88.com

miegacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama miegacoan.life

miegacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama miegacoan.asia

gacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama gacoan.org

gacoan permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama gacoan.asia

website88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama website88.org

waweb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama waweb88.net

waweb88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama waweb88.com

translate88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama translate88.net

translate88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama translate88.com

tempur888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tempur888.info

tempur888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tempur888.asia

tambang99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tambang99.news

tambang99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama tambang99.asia

support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.org

support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.net

support88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama support88.asia

sogoslot88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama sogoslot88.asia

siap88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama siap88.news

siap88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama siap88.asia

rog88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama rog88.asia

rog77 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama rog77.info

pt88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pt88.info

pt88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pt88.asia

pln88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pln88.biz

pln88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama pln88.asia

oke99 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama oke99.asia

oke88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama oke88.asia

mining88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama mining88.org

livechat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama livechat88.info

livechat88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama livechat88.asia

listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.org

listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.info

listrik88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama listrik88.asia

freeport88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama freeport88.net

freeport88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama freeport88.com

free88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama free88.org

free88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama free88.asia

domain88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama domain88.org

domain88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama domain88.asia

dokter888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dokter888.net

dokter888 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama dokter888.asia

bmkg88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama bmkg88.net

bmkg88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama bmkg88.com

asn88 permainan paling top dan garansi imbal balik hasil besar bersama asn88.org

Share.

Comments are closed.